The Natural Deodorant Option

With the growing sense of alarm about the hazards of chemicals used in deodorants and antiperspirants, we embarked on a project to develop a lightening deodorant that will avoid the safety issues and provide maximum consumer benefits using natural alternatives. 

Controversial chemicals that we decided not to use are triclosan, a very popular but controversial antibacterial agent; parabens, which are preservatives, added to most cosmetics; and aluminum salts, the antiperspirant actives which close the pores to prevent sweat from coming out, which is not exactly a good thing. Aluminum chlorohydrate is used in most antiperspirant products.  

Published reports have been circulating on the possible links between these chemicals to impaired thyroid function (triclosan) and altered estrogen levels progressing to breast cancer (aluminum salts and parabens).  Although regulators find that there is not enough body of evidence to ban these ingredients, we decided to follow the dictum, “When in doubt, don’t! “

There is one other serious concern why we cannot use aluminum actives in a whitening product. Aluminum salts cause skin irritation, which can lead to darkening of underarms. In fact, people with sensitive skin are advised to stay away from antiperspirants and use instead deodorants. Antiperspirants with alcohol and strong fragrances, which are likewise strong skin irritants, can be the worst offenders causing dark underarms.

Providing a natural deodorant that will keep people smelling good is our challenge. Human perspiration is actually odorless, until introduced to bacteria that thrive in warm, dark, moist places. The bacteria will break down sweat through fermentation. This chemical reaction causes the malodor. A good antibacterial agent can prevent this from happening.

The natural antibacterial ingredient we settled on is colloidal silver. Silver in its atomic form is an all around destroyer of bacteria, virus and fungi, and is clinically proven effective against body odor-causing bacteria. Zinc ricinoleate is added to neutralize any malodor that may still develop. Whitening activity comes from Licorice root extract, alpha arbutin from bearberry, axolight from wheat, and the patented ethyl ascorbic acid, the most potent of all the vitamin C derivatives.

The final product, we proudly called the DERMAX Deowhite natural deodorant.  Now, if your antiperspirant is causing your underarms to go dark, or if you have doubts about their safety, you now have a safer and better alternative.
______________________________________________________________________________________(Updated on February 15, 2013.) This was published in the May 29, 2012 issue of the Manila Bulletin, Lifestyle Section. The author is the CEO of SkinStation. He received the 2011 Outstanding Chemist Award from Professional Regulations Commission for his achievements in the field of cosmetic chemistry. He can be reached at fred.reyes@skinstation.ph.

Can Antioxidants Make You Look Younger?

Can Antioxidants Make you Look Younger?

Products with antioxidant labels are now the trend. The more popular antioxidants are extracts of green tea, grapes, and mangosteen. Best-sellers include glutathione, vitamins C & E, a-lipoic acid, and CoQ10. Cosmetic companies advertise antioxidant products that claim to reduce or even eliminate the signs of skin aging. The marketing hype is repeated over and over that it now appears to be the gospel truth. But what really is the truth about antioxidants?

Aging is a complex natural process. It involves genetic, hormonal and environmental mechanisms. Free radicals play a central role in aging. They are highly reactive oxygen molecules that can damage various cellular structures in our body. They are produced naturally through normal human metabolism. They are also formed by environmental factors such as UV exposure, cigarette smoking, and alcohol consumption.

The body possesses natural defense mechanisms. It produces antioxidants, substances that provide protection against free radicals. As we age, our natural defense mechanisms decreases, while the production of reactive free radicals increases. This imbalance results in accelerated aging. 

Topical application of antioxidants helps neutralize free radicals, and consequently lessen or prevent signs of skin aging. Beyond prevention, many topical antioxidants are also marketed to eliminate wrinkles. However, among antioxidants, only vitamin C can actually treat wrinkles by boosting collagen production through a mechanism other than antioxidation. For other products, their ability to improve wrinkles is either due to swelling or hydrating effects, or to other ingredients, such as the exfoliating retinol, AHA and BHA, and collagen boosters like hyaluronic acid and amino peptides. 

Current research suggests that antioxidants can have synergistic effects and, thus, better efficacy when combined. Examples are Vitamin C and glutathione, and vitamin C and E. Also, an additive benefit may be derived from using a combination of oral and topical antioxidant products. For topically administered antioxidants to be effective, there are two important concerns that are now addressed by advanced nano-encapsulation technology:

1) Product stabilization. Antioxidants are very unstable; they may      become oxidized and inactive before reaching the target. Encapsulation provides a protective layer that can keep the antioxidant as active as when it was blended during production.

2) Skin absorption. Antioxidants must be small enough to be absorbed into the skin, reach their target tissue in the active form, and remain there long enough to exert the desired effects. Nanotechnology converts antioxidants to nano-sized particles to enhance skin penetration.

Bottomline. Antioxidants play a key role in prevention of premature skin aging. However, they cannot undo the damage done by free radicals at the cellular level. Topical and oral antioxidants cannot erase wrinkles and crows feet. They cannot firm up sagging skin. An antioxidant product that claims to make you look younger is either over promising, or has other ingredients that can exfoliate, plump, and hydrate skin. Always look at the ingredients list.

____________________________________________________________________________This was published in the May 22, 2012 issue of Manila Bulletin, Lifestyle Section.The author is the CEO of SkinStation. He received the 2011 Outstanding Chemist Award from Professional Regulations Commission for his achievements in the field of cosmetic chemistry. He can be reached at fred.reyes@skinstation.ph.

Why Men Should Have Diamond Peel

Why Men Should Have Diamond Peel

You read about it in magazines. You see your girl do it at the skin clinic.  Being a real man not wanting to be identified with girlie stuff, you might be asking: What the hell is diamond peel?

Diamonds are really used in diamond peels. A device with dusts of diamond encrusted on the tip of a wand is used in skin exfoliation. Dead surface skin cells are vacuumed away as the diamond tipped wand is applied gently on the skin. Wand tips of varying sizes are used to get into tighter areas, such as around the eyes, nose and mouth. The treatment is safe, painless, without any downtime, and takes only 15 minutes.

So why should I exfoliate? Isn’t cleansing with soap and water enough?

Everyone over 30 years needs to exfoliate. Although the skin naturally sheds the dead top skin layer, the cell turnover starts to slowdown as we age. Dead skin cells pile up unevenly on the skin's surface, giving it a dry, rough, dull appearance. Exfoliation is beneficial because it removes those cells that are clinging on, revealing fresher, younger skin cells below.

Diamond peel may even be more beneficial on your face than that of a woman's. The skin on a man’s face contains larger pores, whiskers, and it produces more oil and sweat. Put all these factors together and a guy's face can have more trouble shedding those layers of dead skin cells.

Exfoliation also helps you in another way: It exposes your face's hair follicles, allowing for a better shave. And you very well know that a smoother shave is the most important part of your daily morning ritual.  

Why does my Mom want my teen brothers to exfoliate?

Your brothers are more prone to acne than girls. Oily, acne prone skin cannot naturally shed dead skin cells. An outside means of exfoliation is necessary to help the process along. Regular diamond peel treatment can prevent the formation of blackheads and blemishes by keeping the follicles free of blockages. It also prevents skin from having enlarged pores. However, diamond peel is not advisable during episodes of acne breakouts. Exfoliating cleansers would be a better option.

Okay, you have convinced me. Can I have my diamond peel everyday?

Oh no, you should not over exfoliate. The cell turnover is every 28 days on the average. So you only need monthly treatment to help bring back your skin cell turnover to optimum level. Initially, you can have diamond peel treatment every two weeks, if you have virgin skin that’s very dry and rough. On your 3^rd session, start your monthly session. Note that when you exfoliate, the more you need to wear daily sunscreen with UVA and UVB protection.

______________________________________________________________________________________This was published in the May 15, 2012 issue of Manila Bulletin Lifestyle Section. The author is the CEO of SkinStation. He received the 2011 Outstanding Chemist Award from Professional Regulations Commission for his achievements in the field of cosmetic chemistry. He can be reached at fred.reyes@skinstation.ph.

Which vitamin C is good for your skin?

Which Vitamin C is Good For Your Skin?

Vitamin C is widely used in cosmetics now.  It can get confusing which ones really work, which ones are useless. You get bombarded with many marketing hypes, each kind of vitamin C sounding different, formulated in varying amounts.

Vitamin C is of course L- ascorbic acid, and that is the form that works. The problem with L- ascorbic acid is that it is unstable for topical application. When exposed to heat, air, or light, it breaks down quickly, becomes ineffective and even potentially harmful to skin.

Scientists have developed stable vitamin C derivatives with comparable or superior skin benefits. A vitamin C derivative should be able to easily penetrate into skin cells and release L-ascorbic acid in amounts sufficient to boost collagen synthesis. Ideally, it should be less irritating than vitamin C. Three compounds have found their way into the broad skin care market: ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and ethyl ascorbic acid.

HYAL-C has ethyl ascorbic acid.

Ascorbyl palmitate is the most widely used oil-soluble vitamin C derivative in skin care. It is nonirritating and more stable than vitamin C. Unfortunately, the concentrations of ascorbyl palmitate achievable in skin care formulas do not boost collagen synthesis.

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is a water-soluble derivative of vitamin C. It is nonirritating and has a conversion percentage to L-ascorbic acid of over 60%, enough to boost skin collagen synthesis. Overall, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate appears to be a good choice for people with sensitive skin.


Ethyl ascorbic acid is what maybe considered a next generation Vitamin C derivative. It is a highly stable, non-irritating, patented derivative. Ethyl ascorbic acid is the most effective among the three in boosting collagen synthesis and lightening skin, with over 80% metabolized to pure L-ascorbic acid.

Bottomline. When choosing your vitamin C serum, choose the one with ethyl ascorbic acid. Look for colorless or white formulation in an airless bottle. Freshness and proper storage are important. The container should allow you to spot advanced stages of oxidation of the active ingredient by the emergence of a yellowish to brownish tint. There will still be degradation when exposed to light and air, and you don’t want to end up with a useless product.

____________________________________________________________________________This column was published in the May 8, 2012 issue of the Manila Bulletin Lifestyle Section. The author is the CEO of SkinStation. He received the 2011 Outstanding Chemist Award from Professional Regulations Commission for his achievements in the field of cosmetic chemistry. He can be reached at fred.reyes@skinstation.ph.