Laser Hair Removal 101 (Part 2)

Laser Hair Removal 101 (Part 2)

What was once thought as impossible, virtually painless diode laser hair removal is now available. To avoid the pain associated with conventional lasers, the breakthrough technology called Super Hair Removal (SHR) uses low energy and rapid pulsing diode laser. Single pulsed lasers use high energy to be effective, and would require the use of numbing creams to ease the pain. The use of numbing creams can be harmful if applied over large areas. 

Epidermal cooling is also used to reduce pain and prevent skin damage. Cool gel is applied on area to be treated, and the chilled tip mechanism of the laser ensures the surface of skin stays cool and comfortable throughout the treatment. 

The number of sessions needed depends on the area of the body being treated. Notably, the face requires around 8 to 10 sessions to achieve desired results compared to 5 to 6 sessions for the legs. After that, 1 to 2 touch-up treatments every year maybe needed. Other factors to be considered are skin color, coarseness of hair, and gender. Coarse dark hair on light skin is easiest to treat. 

Hair grows in several phases: anagen, telogen, and catagen. Laser treatment works only on the currently active growing hair follicles, called the anagen phase. The hair population has only between 10 and 20% in anagen stage. Hence, several sessions are needed for effective long term result. Treatment sessions should be timed when inactive follicles are just starting to grow again.

Treatment intervals can be from 4 to 8 weeks depending on the area being treated. The face usually requires more frequent treatments at 4 weeks apart, whereas arms and legs require around 6 to 8 weeks. 

Painless diode laser hair removal on legs

The hairs may appear to grow faster after the treatment, but most of the treated hairs will shed in about 2 weeks or so. If you pull the treated hairs with tweezers, there will be no more resistance which means the follicles have been damaged. Subsequent sessions will have longer treatment intervals as hair becomes thinner and regrowth slows down. 

Once you have decided to have your laser hair removal, you should not pluck or wax at least one month prior to the treatment. That's because the laser targets the hairs' roots, which are temporarily removed by waxing or plucking. You should also avoid unnecessary sun exposure on areas to be treated for one month before and after treatment. Sun exposure increases the risk of complications during and after treatment. 

SkinStation offers the best value in laser hair removal with the painless SHR available in all its branches. Compared with a lifetime of shaving, waxing or plucking, SkinStation can save you both time and money. Check out the very affordable packages being offered.

______________________________________________________________________________________This was published in the June 19, 2012 issue of Manila Bulletin Lifestyle Section. The author is the CEO of SkinStation. He received the 2011 Outstanding Chemist Award from Professional Regulations Commission for his achievements in the field of cosmetic chemistry. He can be reached at fred.reyes@skinstation.ph.

Laser Hair Removal 101 (Part 1)

Laser Hair Removal 101 (Part 1)

Next to facial, laser hair removal is probably the most commonly performed cosmetic procedure in the Philippines, with underarm hair as the most unwanted. The basic principle behind laser hair removal is selective heating of melanin in the hair follicle, while keeping the rest of the skin unharmed. Dark objects absorb light, so laser energy can be absorbed by melanin in the hair and skin. Light skin and dark hair is an ideal combination, producing the best results, but new lasers are now able to target black hair in darker skin tones.

Many clinics still offer hair removal by intense pulsed light (IPL) and commonly but incorrectly promote this as "laser hair removal.” IPL devices use full light spectrum from xenon lamps, and are therefore technically not lasers.  Lasers use a single wavelength, leading to a more precise and effective targeting of hair follicle.

Laser hair removal has become popular because of its speed, safety, and effectiveness, although results will depend upon the choice of laser technology used. These lasers are characterized by their wavelength, measured in nanometers (nm).

Alexandrite (755 nm) is used only on pale skin and has the highest pain score. Nd:YAG (1064 nm) is the gold standard for olive (type IV) and dark (type V) skin. Diode (810 nm) laser is the gold standard for pale (type I) to medium (type III) skin, and has now been made safer and virtually painless with the new Super Hair Removal (SHR) technology. 

Diode laser is the best option for the typical Filipino skin, which has light brown (type III) to fair (type II) skin tone. Painless diode laser is available at all SkinStation branches.

Spot size, or the width of the laser beam, affects treatment. The width of the beam should be about four times as wide as the depth of the target. Usual spot size used is about the size of a fingertip (8-18 mm). Larger spot sizes help laser light penetrate deeper and make treatments more effective.

Lasers must have a range of pulse width or pulse duration of 5 to 100 milliseconds. Longer pulse widths are safer for darker skin, but shorter pulse widths are more effective. Pulse width must be matched with the right fluence or energy level (measured in Joules/cm2) necessary to disable the follicles. Fluence levels of 10 to 30 J/cm2 are typically used. Although a higher fluence level can be more effective, it can also mean more pain.

Laser energy can have cumulative effect when introduced repetitively in the same target area. Using this principle, it is now possible to avoid painful laser procedure with the use of low fluence (4-8 J/cm2) and high repetition rate (10 pulses per second). This is commonly referred to as Super Hair Removal (SHR). Diode lasers with this new technology are virtually painless and as effective, making SHR a popular alternative to waxing in Brazilian hair removal. (Part 2 will be published on June 19, 2012.)

______________________________________________________________________________________(Updated on February 21, 2013) This was published in the Lifestyle Section of Manila Bulletin on June 12, 2012. The author is the CEO of SkinStation. He received the 2011 Outstanding Chemist Award from Professional Regulations Commission for his achievements in the field of cosmetic chemistry. He can be reached at fred.reyes@skinstation.ph.

Retinol Treatment for Aging Skin

Retinol Treatment for Aging Skin

Topical vitamin A in the form of retinol and retinoic acid is probably the most studied anti-wrinkle ingredient. Retinoic acid speeds up cell division thus quickening skin renewal, prevents collagen from breaking down, and helps improve skin tone. However, retinoic acid has many side effects, including skin redness and irritation.

To minimize side effects, retinol is used instead in non-prescription anti-aging creams and lotions. Retinol is slowly converted to retinoic acid once it penetrates the skin, causing retinoic acid-like skin rejuvenating effects. The slow conversion to retinoic acid makes incidence of skin irritation much less.

Old retinol formulas have encountered stability and efficacy issues. Retinol is highly unstable when exposed to air and may get degraded even before skin application. New formulations now use advanced nano-encapsulation technology to address this important retinol stability concern.

Nano-encapsulated retinol makes
DERMAX Retinol C highly effective.

Of all the clinical studies on retinol, one stands out for having geriatrics as its subjects. The study published in the Archives of Dermatology describes the clinical effect of retinol lotion (0.4%) on 36 subjects with ages 80 to 96. “Safe and effective therapies to reverse the atrophy of natural skin aging do not exist currently,” the investigators led by Dr. Kang wrote, “possibly because skin aging is poorly understood, and conducting clinical studies in a geriatric population represents a considerable challenge.”

At each visit, topical retinol lotion was applied to the upper-inner (sun-protected) portion of one arm and its vehicle lotion (a popular brand of body moisturizer) was applied to the other arm. Lotions were applied up to three times a week for 24 weeks.

The fine wrinkles of intrinsic aging began to improve after four weeks of retinol use, with continued improvement throughout the study, the researchers reported. The four-week response was faster than that observed in photoaging studies. Typically, at least two to three months of topical retinoic acid therapy is needed before noting any significant improvement in wrinkles caused by photoaging.

After 24 weeks, there were significant differences between retinol-treated and vehicle-treated skin for changes in fine wrinkling scores. Retinol treatment significantly increased collagen production in six patients by about 40% compared with vehicle treatment.

The improvement was not permanent. Three months after the therapy was discontinued the difference in fine wrinkle severity had lessened between the retinol- and vehicle-treated sides but remained significant. Six months after the discontinuation of retinol treatment, no significant differences remained between the 2 sides. 

If topical retinol can improve fine wrinkles, collagen deficiency, and atrophy in the fragile skin of elderly subjects, it should be able to do more on younger, less challenging skin.

______________________________________________________________________________________This was published in the June 5, 2012 issue of Manila Bulletin, Lifestyle Section. The author is the CEO of SkinStation. He received the 2011 Outstanding Chemist Award from Professional Regulations Commission for his achievements in the field of cosmetic chemistry. He can be reached at fred.reyes@skinstation.ph.

The Natural Deodorant Option

With the growing sense of alarm about the hazards of chemicals used in deodorants and antiperspirants, we embarked on a project to develop a lightening deodorant that will avoid the safety issues and provide maximum consumer benefits using natural alternatives. 

Controversial chemicals that we decided not to use are triclosan, a very popular but controversial antibacterial agent; parabens, which are preservatives, added to most cosmetics; and aluminum salts, the antiperspirant actives which close the pores to prevent sweat from coming out, which is not exactly a good thing. Aluminum chlorohydrate is used in most antiperspirant products.  

Published reports have been circulating on the possible links between these chemicals to impaired thyroid function (triclosan) and altered estrogen levels progressing to breast cancer (aluminum salts and parabens).  Although regulators find that there is not enough body of evidence to ban these ingredients, we decided to follow the dictum, “When in doubt, don’t! “

There is one other serious concern why we cannot use aluminum actives in a whitening product. Aluminum salts cause skin irritation, which can lead to darkening of underarms. In fact, people with sensitive skin are advised to stay away from antiperspirants and use instead deodorants. Antiperspirants with alcohol and strong fragrances, which are likewise strong skin irritants, can be the worst offenders causing dark underarms.

Providing a natural deodorant that will keep people smelling good is our challenge. Human perspiration is actually odorless, until introduced to bacteria that thrive in warm, dark, moist places. The bacteria will break down sweat through fermentation. This chemical reaction causes the malodor. A good antibacterial agent can prevent this from happening.

The natural antibacterial ingredient we settled on is colloidal silver. Silver in its atomic form is an all around destroyer of bacteria, virus and fungi, and is clinically proven effective against body odor-causing bacteria. Zinc ricinoleate is added to neutralize any malodor that may still develop. Whitening activity comes from Licorice root extract, alpha arbutin from bearberry, axolight from wheat, and the patented ethyl ascorbic acid, the most potent of all the vitamin C derivatives.

The final product, we proudly called the DERMAX Deowhite natural deodorant.  Now, if your antiperspirant is causing your underarms to go dark, or if you have doubts about their safety, you now have a safer and better alternative.
______________________________________________________________________________________(Updated on February 15, 2013.) This was published in the May 29, 2012 issue of the Manila Bulletin, Lifestyle Section. The author is the CEO of SkinStation. He received the 2011 Outstanding Chemist Award from Professional Regulations Commission for his achievements in the field of cosmetic chemistry. He can be reached at fred.reyes@skinstation.ph.

Can Antioxidants Make You Look Younger?

Can Antioxidants Make you Look Younger?

Products with antioxidant labels are now the trend. The more popular antioxidants are extracts of green tea, grapes, and mangosteen. Best-sellers include glutathione, vitamins C & E, a-lipoic acid, and CoQ10. Cosmetic companies advertise antioxidant products that claim to reduce or even eliminate the signs of skin aging. The marketing hype is repeated over and over that it now appears to be the gospel truth. But what really is the truth about antioxidants?

Aging is a complex natural process. It involves genetic, hormonal and environmental mechanisms. Free radicals play a central role in aging. They are highly reactive oxygen molecules that can damage various cellular structures in our body. They are produced naturally through normal human metabolism. They are also formed by environmental factors such as UV exposure, cigarette smoking, and alcohol consumption.

The body possesses natural defense mechanisms. It produces antioxidants, substances that provide protection against free radicals. As we age, our natural defense mechanisms decreases, while the production of reactive free radicals increases. This imbalance results in accelerated aging. 

Topical application of antioxidants helps neutralize free radicals, and consequently lessen or prevent signs of skin aging. Beyond prevention, many topical antioxidants are also marketed to eliminate wrinkles. However, among antioxidants, only vitamin C can actually treat wrinkles by boosting collagen production through a mechanism other than antioxidation. For other products, their ability to improve wrinkles is either due to swelling or hydrating effects, or to other ingredients, such as the exfoliating retinol, AHA and BHA, and collagen boosters like hyaluronic acid and amino peptides. 

Current research suggests that antioxidants can have synergistic effects and, thus, better efficacy when combined. Examples are Vitamin C and glutathione, and vitamin C and E. Also, an additive benefit may be derived from using a combination of oral and topical antioxidant products. For topically administered antioxidants to be effective, there are two important concerns that are now addressed by advanced nano-encapsulation technology:

1) Product stabilization. Antioxidants are very unstable; they may      become oxidized and inactive before reaching the target. Encapsulation provides a protective layer that can keep the antioxidant as active as when it was blended during production.

2) Skin absorption. Antioxidants must be small enough to be absorbed into the skin, reach their target tissue in the active form, and remain there long enough to exert the desired effects. Nanotechnology converts antioxidants to nano-sized particles to enhance skin penetration.

Bottomline. Antioxidants play a key role in prevention of premature skin aging. However, they cannot undo the damage done by free radicals at the cellular level. Topical and oral antioxidants cannot erase wrinkles and crows feet. They cannot firm up sagging skin. An antioxidant product that claims to make you look younger is either over promising, or has other ingredients that can exfoliate, plump, and hydrate skin. Always look at the ingredients list.

____________________________________________________________________________This was published in the May 22, 2012 issue of Manila Bulletin, Lifestyle Section.The author is the CEO of SkinStation. He received the 2011 Outstanding Chemist Award from Professional Regulations Commission for his achievements in the field of cosmetic chemistry. He can be reached at fred.reyes@skinstation.ph.

Why Men Should Have Diamond Peel

Why Men Should Have Diamond Peel

You read about it in magazines. You see your girl do it at the skin clinic.  Being a real man not wanting to be identified with girlie stuff, you might be asking: What the hell is diamond peel?

Diamonds are really used in diamond peels. A device with dusts of diamond encrusted on the tip of a wand is used in skin exfoliation. Dead surface skin cells are vacuumed away as the diamond tipped wand is applied gently on the skin. Wand tips of varying sizes are used to get into tighter areas, such as around the eyes, nose and mouth. The treatment is safe, painless, without any downtime, and takes only 15 minutes.

So why should I exfoliate? Isn’t cleansing with soap and water enough?

Everyone over 30 years needs to exfoliate. Although the skin naturally sheds the dead top skin layer, the cell turnover starts to slowdown as we age. Dead skin cells pile up unevenly on the skin's surface, giving it a dry, rough, dull appearance. Exfoliation is beneficial because it removes those cells that are clinging on, revealing fresher, younger skin cells below.

Diamond peel may even be more beneficial on your face than that of a woman's. The skin on a man’s face contains larger pores, whiskers, and it produces more oil and sweat. Put all these factors together and a guy's face can have more trouble shedding those layers of dead skin cells.

Exfoliation also helps you in another way: It exposes your face's hair follicles, allowing for a better shave. And you very well know that a smoother shave is the most important part of your daily morning ritual.  

Why does my Mom want my teen brothers to exfoliate?

Your brothers are more prone to acne than girls. Oily, acne prone skin cannot naturally shed dead skin cells. An outside means of exfoliation is necessary to help the process along. Regular diamond peel treatment can prevent the formation of blackheads and blemishes by keeping the follicles free of blockages. It also prevents skin from having enlarged pores. However, diamond peel is not advisable during episodes of acne breakouts. Exfoliating cleansers would be a better option.

Okay, you have convinced me. Can I have my diamond peel everyday?

Oh no, you should not over exfoliate. The cell turnover is every 28 days on the average. So you only need monthly treatment to help bring back your skin cell turnover to optimum level. Initially, you can have diamond peel treatment every two weeks, if you have virgin skin that’s very dry and rough. On your 3^rd session, start your monthly session. Note that when you exfoliate, the more you need to wear daily sunscreen with UVA and UVB protection.

______________________________________________________________________________________This was published in the May 15, 2012 issue of Manila Bulletin Lifestyle Section. The author is the CEO of SkinStation. He received the 2011 Outstanding Chemist Award from Professional Regulations Commission for his achievements in the field of cosmetic chemistry. He can be reached at fred.reyes@skinstation.ph.

Which vitamin C is good for your skin?

Which Vitamin C is Good For Your Skin?

Vitamin C is widely used in cosmetics now.  It can get confusing which ones really work, which ones are useless. You get bombarded with many marketing hypes, each kind of vitamin C sounding different, formulated in varying amounts.

Vitamin C is of course L- ascorbic acid, and that is the form that works. The problem with L- ascorbic acid is that it is unstable for topical application. When exposed to heat, air, or light, it breaks down quickly, becomes ineffective and even potentially harmful to skin.

Scientists have developed stable vitamin C derivatives with comparable or superior skin benefits. A vitamin C derivative should be able to easily penetrate into skin cells and release L-ascorbic acid in amounts sufficient to boost collagen synthesis. Ideally, it should be less irritating than vitamin C. Three compounds have found their way into the broad skin care market: ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and ethyl ascorbic acid.

HYAL-C has ethyl ascorbic acid.

Ascorbyl palmitate is the most widely used oil-soluble vitamin C derivative in skin care. It is nonirritating and more stable than vitamin C. Unfortunately, the concentrations of ascorbyl palmitate achievable in skin care formulas do not boost collagen synthesis.

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is a water-soluble derivative of vitamin C. It is nonirritating and has a conversion percentage to L-ascorbic acid of over 60%, enough to boost skin collagen synthesis. Overall, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate appears to be a good choice for people with sensitive skin.


Ethyl ascorbic acid is what maybe considered a next generation Vitamin C derivative. It is a highly stable, non-irritating, patented derivative. Ethyl ascorbic acid is the most effective among the three in boosting collagen synthesis and lightening skin, with over 80% metabolized to pure L-ascorbic acid.

Bottomline. When choosing your vitamin C serum, choose the one with ethyl ascorbic acid. Look for colorless or white formulation in an airless bottle. Freshness and proper storage are important. The container should allow you to spot advanced stages of oxidation of the active ingredient by the emergence of a yellowish to brownish tint. There will still be degradation when exposed to light and air, and you don’t want to end up with a useless product.

____________________________________________________________________________This column was published in the May 8, 2012 issue of the Manila Bulletin Lifestyle Section. The author is the CEO of SkinStation. He received the 2011 Outstanding Chemist Award from Professional Regulations Commission for his achievements in the field of cosmetic chemistry. He can be reached at fred.reyes@skinstation.ph.