THE FUTURE OF SKIN CARE: NANO-ENCAPSULATION TECHNOLOGY

When we talk of nano, we talk about size. Nano is a billionth of a meter; a thousand times smaller than micro. Nanotechnology is the manipulation of matter on atomic and molecular scale. The concept and the potential applications can be very exciting.

Hundreds of billions of dollars have been spent on its research by the governments in Europe, USA and Japan.  Applications have been found in the field of electronics, energy production, biomaterials and medicine.

With the development of nano sized active ingredients, skin care formulations have leaped to new levels of advancement.  Many major skin care companies launched new nano skin care products with enhanced effectiveness.  Skin absorption has vastly improved with the smaller particle size of nano active ingredients.

Ordinarily, skin care actives would only lay on the surface of the skin accomplishing nothing beyond improving feel. For anti-aging and lightening products, the active ingredients must work inside the skin to have any effect at all. Nanotechnology has made it possible for actives to go beyond the barriers much more easily.  

Then there was the report alleging the potential of nano sized physical sunscreens getting into the body’s bloodstream. Although the clinical basis for such a claim is largely insufficient, the alarm created such a bad press, and stunted the popularity of nanotechnology in skin care. Suddenly, the major brands deleted all reference to nano in their marketing. However, they continue to use nanotechnology in their formulations, as they hide behind terminology like “micro” to avoid any controversy.

Behind the headlines in mainstream media, the research and development in nanotechnology continues. Encapsulating nano particles is one recent major advance.

Why not encapsulate nano actives which are highly reactive and unstable? Encapsulation will protect the degradation of ingredients, keeping them as fresh as when they were first added in the blend.

Why not use encapsulation technology that will slowly release nano ingredients to impart time-release benefit?

And why not use encapsulation technology that will bring the actives to specific epidermal or dermal layer where they will be needed most?

Such incredible nano-encapsulation concepts are real and are available now at SkinStation. We have embraced nanoencapsulation technology in our DERMAX Professional skin care line. We know it is safe. We are convinced that this is the future of skin care. We not only openly declare this. We proudly incorporated “NANO” in our brand name.

(In July 2012, the author spoke before the members of Philippine Society for Cosmetic Science (PSCS) on the same topic, with the title, "Nano+Encapsulation Technology in Personal Care Products". The updated and modified version of that presentation before the PSCS can be accessed here:  https://app.box.com/s/7igjxmfyh5olyz6ktlv7.)

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Skin Smart seeks to clarify facts and myths on skin care. It will also share innovative developments in skin care industry. This column was published in the Manila Bulletin Lifestyle Section on June 25, 2013.  The author  received the 2011 Outstanding Chemist Award from Professional Regulation Commission (PRC) for his achievements in the field of cosmetic chemistry.  He is the CEO of SkinStation and can be reached at fred.reyes@skinstation.ph. 

Retinol Treatment for Aging Skin

Retinol Treatment for Aging Skin

Topical vitamin A in the form of retinol and retinoic acid is probably the most studied anti-wrinkle ingredient. Retinoic acid speeds up cell division thus quickening skin renewal, prevents collagen from breaking down, and helps improve skin tone. However, retinoic acid has many side effects, including skin redness and irritation.

To minimize side effects, retinol is used instead in non-prescription anti-aging creams and lotions. Retinol is slowly converted to retinoic acid once it penetrates the skin, causing retinoic acid-like skin rejuvenating effects. The slow conversion to retinoic acid makes incidence of skin irritation much less.

Old retinol formulas have encountered stability and efficacy issues. Retinol is highly unstable when exposed to air and may get degraded even before skin application. New formulations now use advanced nano-encapsulation technology to address this important retinol stability concern.

Nano-encapsulated retinol makes
DERMAX Retinol C highly effective.

Of all the clinical studies on retinol, one stands out for having geriatrics as its subjects. The study published in the Archives of Dermatology describes the clinical effect of retinol lotion (0.4%) on 36 subjects with ages 80 to 96. “Safe and effective therapies to reverse the atrophy of natural skin aging do not exist currently,” the investigators led by Dr. Kang wrote, “possibly because skin aging is poorly understood, and conducting clinical studies in a geriatric population represents a considerable challenge.”

At each visit, topical retinol lotion was applied to the upper-inner (sun-protected) portion of one arm and its vehicle lotion (a popular brand of body moisturizer) was applied to the other arm. Lotions were applied up to three times a week for 24 weeks.

The fine wrinkles of intrinsic aging began to improve after four weeks of retinol use, with continued improvement throughout the study, the researchers reported. The four-week response was faster than that observed in photoaging studies. Typically, at least two to three months of topical retinoic acid therapy is needed before noting any significant improvement in wrinkles caused by photoaging.

After 24 weeks, there were significant differences between retinol-treated and vehicle-treated skin for changes in fine wrinkling scores. Retinol treatment significantly increased collagen production in six patients by about 40% compared with vehicle treatment.

The improvement was not permanent. Three months after the therapy was discontinued the difference in fine wrinkle severity had lessened between the retinol- and vehicle-treated sides but remained significant. Six months after the discontinuation of retinol treatment, no significant differences remained between the 2 sides. 

If topical retinol can improve fine wrinkles, collagen deficiency, and atrophy in the fragile skin of elderly subjects, it should be able to do more on younger, less challenging skin.

______________________________________________________________________________________This was published in the June 5, 2012 issue of Manila Bulletin, Lifestyle Section. The author is the CEO of SkinStation. He received the 2011 Outstanding Chemist Award from Professional Regulations Commission for his achievements in the field of cosmetic chemistry. He can be reached at fred.reyes@skinstation.ph.

Can Antioxidants Make You Look Younger?

Can Antioxidants Make you Look Younger?

Products with antioxidant labels are now the trend. The more popular antioxidants are extracts of green tea, grapes, and mangosteen. Best-sellers include glutathione, vitamins C & E, a-lipoic acid, and CoQ10. Cosmetic companies advertise antioxidant products that claim to reduce or even eliminate the signs of skin aging. The marketing hype is repeated over and over that it now appears to be the gospel truth. But what really is the truth about antioxidants?

Aging is a complex natural process. It involves genetic, hormonal and environmental mechanisms. Free radicals play a central role in aging. They are highly reactive oxygen molecules that can damage various cellular structures in our body. They are produced naturally through normal human metabolism. They are also formed by environmental factors such as UV exposure, cigarette smoking, and alcohol consumption.

The body possesses natural defense mechanisms. It produces antioxidants, substances that provide protection against free radicals. As we age, our natural defense mechanisms decreases, while the production of reactive free radicals increases. This imbalance results in accelerated aging. 

Topical application of antioxidants helps neutralize free radicals, and consequently lessen or prevent signs of skin aging. Beyond prevention, many topical antioxidants are also marketed to eliminate wrinkles. However, among antioxidants, only vitamin C can actually treat wrinkles by boosting collagen production through a mechanism other than antioxidation. For other products, their ability to improve wrinkles is either due to swelling or hydrating effects, or to other ingredients, such as the exfoliating retinol, AHA and BHA, and collagen boosters like hyaluronic acid and amino peptides. 

Current research suggests that antioxidants can have synergistic effects and, thus, better efficacy when combined. Examples are Vitamin C and glutathione, and vitamin C and E. Also, an additive benefit may be derived from using a combination of oral and topical antioxidant products. For topically administered antioxidants to be effective, there are two important concerns that are now addressed by advanced nano-encapsulation technology:

1) Product stabilization. Antioxidants are very unstable; they may      become oxidized and inactive before reaching the target. Encapsulation provides a protective layer that can keep the antioxidant as active as when it was blended during production.

2) Skin absorption. Antioxidants must be small enough to be absorbed into the skin, reach their target tissue in the active form, and remain there long enough to exert the desired effects. Nanotechnology converts antioxidants to nano-sized particles to enhance skin penetration.

Bottomline. Antioxidants play a key role in prevention of premature skin aging. However, they cannot undo the damage done by free radicals at the cellular level. Topical and oral antioxidants cannot erase wrinkles and crows feet. They cannot firm up sagging skin. An antioxidant product that claims to make you look younger is either over promising, or has other ingredients that can exfoliate, plump, and hydrate skin. Always look at the ingredients list.

____________________________________________________________________________This was published in the May 22, 2012 issue of Manila Bulletin, Lifestyle Section.The author is the CEO of SkinStation. He received the 2011 Outstanding Chemist Award from Professional Regulations Commission for his achievements in the field of cosmetic chemistry. He can be reached at fred.reyes@skinstation.ph.

Nanotechnology in Skin Care

Nanotechnology in Skin Care

Nanotechnology is not a new concept. This technology has been in use for many years in various scientific applications. Skin care is just a new dimension of the technology. With nanotechnology, active ingredients are converted into very tiny microscopic particles, so tiny that they can penetrate deep into the skin, giving astonishing results.

Ordinarily, skin care actives only lay on the surface of the skin. This is good enough for sunscreen products.  Sun protection should happen at the outermost layer of the skin. But for anti-aging or lightening products, they must work inside the skin to have any effect at all.

Nanotechnology enhances the benefits of many skin care products. Nano-sized natural whitening actives like licorice extract and ellagic acid are used in the DERMAX NanoWhite line, which is available exclusively at SkinStation.  These nano sized lightening actives can better penetrate the dermal and epidermal junction where melanin formation can be effectively minimized. Many anti-aging actives are now also being used in nano form. Examples are the antioxidants from green tea and grapes and the anti-irritant ursulic acid. DERMAX HYAL-C serum has nano-sized hyaluronic acid to provide lifting and dermal-filler like effects. Topical lip plumper using nanotechnology is now possible. Although effect can be transient, it could provide a way to avoid expensive lip augmentation procedure.

Nanotechnology products are also used for treating dark circles under the eyes. Dark eye circles occur due to problem with microcirculation of blood. They look ugly and are difficult to eliminate. A blend of nano-ingredients can much more readily penetrate to improve blood circulation. Also, nanotechnology is being explored to treat spider veins and to prevent stretch marks. Many more exciting breakthrough developments are forthcoming.

Encapsulating nano particles is a very recent development. This has tremendously boosted effectiveness and stability of new skin care products. Encapsulation protects the degradation of nano-actives, keeping them as fresh and as effective as when they were first added into the blend. Nano encapsulated active ingredients are used extensively in SkinStation's DERMAX line of professional skin care products. 

Definitely, the future of skin care lies in tapping advanced technologies. That future is now available in SkinStation.

(In July 2012, the author spoke before the members of Philippine Society for Cosmetic Science (PSCS) on the same topic, with the title, "Nano+Encapsulation Technology in Personal Care Products". The updated and modified version of that presentation before the PSCS can be accessed here:  https://app.box.com/s/7igjxmfyh5olyz6ktlv7.)
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This column was published in the Manila Bulletin Lifestyle Section on April 3, 2012. The author is the CEO of SkinStation. He received the 2011 Outstanding Chemist Award from Professional Regulations Commission for his achievements in the field of cosmetic chemistry. He can be reached at fred.reyes@skinstation.ph.