Do Your Hands Give Away Your Age?

Do Your Hands Give Away Your Age?

“If you want to know a woman’s age, look at her hands,” is an old saying that remains true. The face and the neck are the usual concerns when it comes to looking younger. The hands are commonly overlooked. Ageing hands like the face are susceptible to volume loss and sun damage. The fatty layer of the hand disappears, so the skin is more translucent and shriveled, and you see underlying structures like bones, tendons and veins. 

Combating hand ageing takes more than the usual hand cream. Now, there are new products and procedures that will not give away your age. Hand rejuvenation techniques can instantly replenish volume loss, diminish age spots, and provide long term benefits.

Restylane micro-injector is used in SkinStation

To remedy the lack of volume in the hands, stabilized hyaluronic acid dermal filler injection, such as Restylane Vital Light and Juvederm, provides instant remedy. Dermal filler injection immediately plumps the back of the hand to provide supple and younger appearance. Hyaluronic acid raises the skin level, making bone structure and veins less visible. The results last up to 6 months.

Before and after pictures with Restylane Vital

Topical anesthesia is applied for a painless procedure. To avoid bruising of the delicate skin on ageing hands, a Restylane micro-injector is used which precisely measures the amount of filler introduced into the spaces between the knuckles. This allows ease of access and accurate placement of fillers for superb results. The actual treatment takes less than 30 minutes for both hands.

RETINOL-C improves skin texture.

To remove sunspots, filler treatment can be combined with intense pulsed light (IPL) or fractional laser resurfacing. These procedures can also tighten skin and minimize appearance of wrinkles. Chemical peels with TCA or glycolic acid will also improve texture and lighten pigmentation.

Not everyone can take advantage of these instant hand rejuvenation clinic procedures. New advanced products for home use can provide relief.  They also extend the effects of the clinic procedures. Highly recommended is HYAL-C serum with low molecular weight hyaluronic acid and vitamin C to augment the skin’s hydrobalance and help reduce pigmentation. RETINOL-C serum smoothens skin texture, encourages new collagen to form, and minimizes sunspots.  Daily sun protection is a must, with UV MILK sunscreen with SPF55 PA+++ rating. These products are available exclusively at SkinStation.

With all these options available for hand rejuvenation, the old saying that a woman’s hands always give away her real age could be a thing of the past.

______________________________________________________________________________________This was published in the July 10, 2012 issue of Manila Bulletin Lifestyle Section. The author is the CEO of SkinStation. He received the 2011 Outstanding Chemist Award from Professional Regulations Commission for his achievements in the field of cosmetic chemistry. He can be reached at fred.reyes@skinstation.ph.

What You Can Do About Melasma

What You Can Do About Melasma

Melasma typically appears as dark, irregular, well-demarcated hyper-pigmented patches on the face, usually seen on the upper cheek, nose, upper lip, and forehead. These patches develop gradually over time.  It is a common skin disorder in women during their reproductive years, and is often referred to as the “mask of pregnancy”.

The dark patches are caused by the overstimulation of the pigment producing cells in the dermis, called melanocytes, to produce more melanin when the skin is exposed to the sun. Experts believe that increased levels of female sex hormones estrogen and progesterone, combined with sun exposure, trigger hyperactive melanin production.

Pregnant women experience increased estrogen, progesterone, and melanocyte-stimulating hormone (MSH) levels during the second and third trimesters of pregnancy. Hormone related correlation is also seen with increased incidence of melasma in women taking birth control pills, hormone replacement therapy (HRT), and those with thyroid condition.

Genetic predisposition may also be a factor, just as race can play a role. Melasma is most common among women of Asian, Middle Eastern and Latin descent. There are also antiarrhythmic, antiseizure and antibiotic medications like tetracycline that may make the skin more prone to pigmentation after exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light. Certain cosmetic preparations have also been found to cause melasma-like patches on the face.

The discoloration usually fades away over a period of several months after giving birth or after stopping the oral contraceptives or hormone replacement therapy. Unfortunately, not all the discolorations disappear. Many also experience a resurgence of the patches after prolonged sun exposure.

Avoid the sun and 

use sunscreen daily. 

Prevention is primarily aimed at having daily facial sun protection and sun avoidance. Treatment requires the same regular daily sunscreen application, with minimum of SPF30 recommended. Wearing sunscreen daily should be a continuing habit even during pregnancy, while all other forms of treatments should be done after pregnancy.

The most common melasma home remedy is a combo of lightening and exfoliating ingredients. Years ago, the preferred lightening ingredient product was hydroquinone. Misuse of blends of hydroquinone and tretinoin have been the cause of many skin discolorations on the face, particularly those who failed to include sunscreen in their daily regimen. Risks associated with long term use of hydroquinone have also prompted most countries to restrict its sale. 

For sometime, kojic acid appeared to be the chosen replacement for hydroquinone, but doubts about its safety were raised prompting Japan and Korea to ban its use in cosmetic preparations. Now, we see the market embracing natural and effective skin lightening alternatives, like licorice extract, ellagic acid, and alpha arbutin, which are all found in DERMAX NanoWhite night essence, creams, and lotions. DERMAX Retinol C serum provides a more intensive effect with its micro-exfoliation feature.

In conjunction with home cream applications, in-clinic treatment options include chemical peels by TCA or a combo of glycolic and diamond peels. CollaWhite Collagenesis is a signature microneedling procedure at SkinStation designed to minimize skin discoloration and smoothen out rough skin. Multiple treatments, in combination with daily use of DERMAX UV MILK sunscreen, lightening and exfoliant creams, yield best results. To ensure that treatment doesn't fail, sun exposure should be minimized.

Many doctors generally avoid IPL and laser therapy options for melasma. While it may work for some, many patients report a worsening of their skin discoloration. Those with melasma have excitable melanocytes that any exposure to light can trigger adverse effect. If your doctor recommends IPL or laser, ask for a second opinion.

_______________________________________________________________________________________________

This was published in the July 3, 2012 issue of Manila Bulletin Lifestyle Section. The author is the CEO of SkinStation. He received the 2011 Outstanding Chemist Award from Professional Regulations Commission (PRC) for his achievements in the field of cosmetic chemistry. He can be reached at fred.reyes@skinstation.ph. (Updated on April 23, 2013.)

Radiofrequency For Skin Firming

Radiofrequency for Skin Firming

Radiofrequency (RF) in dermatology gained popularity in the last decade. RF is a popular treatment option for skin firming and tightening on face and body. RF energy is delivered to the deep dermis and sub-dermal layers of the skin, while protecting the outer layers of skin. Heating the deeper dermis and subcutaneous layers causes collagen contraction. Over time, new collagen is produced by the body to further tighten the skin.

RF machines are either monopolar (unipolar) or bipolar, which refer to the number of electrodes on the handpiece. In a monopolar device, the current from the RF machine flows through the body from a single electrode in the handpiece. A grounding, or “return pad” is used, attached to the patient’s lower back or ankle, to provide a low resistance path for the current to flow back to the generating machine, to complete the electrical circuit. Thermage is an example of a monopolar RF device used for facial rejuvenation.

A biopolar device has two electrodes on its handpiece. With bipolar delivery, the current from the generating machine flows only through the tissue which is between the two electrodes on the handpiece; these electrodes start and complete the electrical circuit. Hence, with bipolar delivery, no current flows through the rest of the body, so no grounding or return pad is needed.

In all cases of RF delivery types, it is the resistance to the current flow in the tissue, not the electrode that generates the heating effect.

Newer improved treatment methods to further enhance patient comfort and results have been developed since Thermage was introduced in 2004. Some variations of these RF devices are:

a) Dual Handpiece. A biopolar handpiece is used for volumetric dermal heating for skin tightening treatments; and a monopolar one for a deep controlled penetration depth of the RF energy for fat reduction and cellulite treatment.

Multipolar RF in SkinStation

b) Tripolar (or Multipolar). The handpiece simultaneously combines the effects of mono-polar and bipolar radiofrequencies in a single treatment. The use of multi-frequency RF is claimed to produce better results with less pain.

RF treatment is best suited for patients with mild to moderate sagging of skin, usually those in their mid 30s to 50s. It is commonly used to lift brows and tighten forehead skin, tighten and lift the upper cheek skin, diminish jowling and sagging along the jaw line, and lessen wrinkling of the neck. It is also used to firm up loose skin around the belly, especially after a weight loss regimen. In combination with vibrating mechanism, RF can temporarily lessen cellulites.

Some people may experience mild redness immediately following treatment, but this usually disappears quickly. Most people find that they can return to normal activities immediately after treatment. 


A treatment session can last about 25-30 minutes and are usually recommended once every 2 weeks with an average of 6 sessions in a facial firming program. This may be followed by a maintenance session once every 2 months. For body shaping, it is recommended to have a course of 8 to 10 sessions, once every 1 to 2 weeks, in conjunction with a slimming regimen.

_________________________________________________________________________This was published in the June 26, 2012 issue of Manila Bulletin Lifestyle section. The author is the CEO of SkinStation. He received the 2011 Outstanding Chemist Award from Professional Regulations Commission for his achievements in the field of cosmetic chemistry.  Questions sent to info@skinstation.ph maybe featured in future issues.

Laser Hair Removal 101 (Part 2)

Laser Hair Removal 101 (Part 2)

What was once thought as impossible, virtually painless diode laser hair removal is now available. To avoid the pain associated with conventional lasers, the breakthrough technology called Super Hair Removal (SHR) uses low energy and rapid pulsing diode laser. Single pulsed lasers use high energy to be effective, and would require the use of numbing creams to ease the pain. The use of numbing creams can be harmful if applied over large areas. 

Epidermal cooling is also used to reduce pain and prevent skin damage. Cool gel is applied on area to be treated, and the chilled tip mechanism of the laser ensures the surface of skin stays cool and comfortable throughout the treatment. 

The number of sessions needed depends on the area of the body being treated. Notably, the face requires around 8 to 10 sessions to achieve desired results compared to 5 to 6 sessions for the legs. After that, 1 to 2 touch-up treatments every year maybe needed. Other factors to be considered are skin color, coarseness of hair, and gender. Coarse dark hair on light skin is easiest to treat. 

Hair grows in several phases: anagen, telogen, and catagen. Laser treatment works only on the currently active growing hair follicles, called the anagen phase. The hair population has only between 10 and 20% in anagen stage. Hence, several sessions are needed for effective long term result. Treatment sessions should be timed when inactive follicles are just starting to grow again.

Treatment intervals can be from 4 to 8 weeks depending on the area being treated. The face usually requires more frequent treatments at 4 weeks apart, whereas arms and legs require around 6 to 8 weeks. 

Painless diode laser hair removal on legs

The hairs may appear to grow faster after the treatment, but most of the treated hairs will shed in about 2 weeks or so. If you pull the treated hairs with tweezers, there will be no more resistance which means the follicles have been damaged. Subsequent sessions will have longer treatment intervals as hair becomes thinner and regrowth slows down. 

Once you have decided to have your laser hair removal, you should not pluck or wax at least one month prior to the treatment. That's because the laser targets the hairs' roots, which are temporarily removed by waxing or plucking. You should also avoid unnecessary sun exposure on areas to be treated for one month before and after treatment. Sun exposure increases the risk of complications during and after treatment. 

SkinStation offers the best value in laser hair removal with the painless SHR available in all its branches. Compared with a lifetime of shaving, waxing or plucking, SkinStation can save you both time and money. Check out the very affordable packages being offered.

______________________________________________________________________________________This was published in the June 19, 2012 issue of Manila Bulletin Lifestyle Section. The author is the CEO of SkinStation. He received the 2011 Outstanding Chemist Award from Professional Regulations Commission for his achievements in the field of cosmetic chemistry. He can be reached at fred.reyes@skinstation.ph.

Laser Hair Removal 101 (Part 1)

Laser Hair Removal 101 (Part 1)

Next to facial, laser hair removal is probably the most commonly performed cosmetic procedure in the Philippines, with underarm hair as the most unwanted. The basic principle behind laser hair removal is selective heating of melanin in the hair follicle, while keeping the rest of the skin unharmed. Dark objects absorb light, so laser energy can be absorbed by melanin in the hair and skin. Light skin and dark hair is an ideal combination, producing the best results, but new lasers are now able to target black hair in darker skin tones.

Many clinics still offer hair removal by intense pulsed light (IPL) and commonly but incorrectly promote this as "laser hair removal.” IPL devices use full light spectrum from xenon lamps, and are therefore technically not lasers.  Lasers use a single wavelength, leading to a more precise and effective targeting of hair follicle.

Laser hair removal has become popular because of its speed, safety, and effectiveness, although results will depend upon the choice of laser technology used. These lasers are characterized by their wavelength, measured in nanometers (nm).

Alexandrite (755 nm) is used only on pale skin and has the highest pain score. Nd:YAG (1064 nm) is the gold standard for olive (type IV) and dark (type V) skin. Diode (810 nm) laser is the gold standard for pale (type I) to medium (type III) skin, and has now been made safer and virtually painless with the new Super Hair Removal (SHR) technology. 

Diode laser is the best option for the typical Filipino skin, which has light brown (type III) to fair (type II) skin tone. Painless diode laser is available at all SkinStation branches.

Spot size, or the width of the laser beam, affects treatment. The width of the beam should be about four times as wide as the depth of the target. Usual spot size used is about the size of a fingertip (8-18 mm). Larger spot sizes help laser light penetrate deeper and make treatments more effective.

Lasers must have a range of pulse width or pulse duration of 5 to 100 milliseconds. Longer pulse widths are safer for darker skin, but shorter pulse widths are more effective. Pulse width must be matched with the right fluence or energy level (measured in Joules/cm2) necessary to disable the follicles. Fluence levels of 10 to 30 J/cm2 are typically used. Although a higher fluence level can be more effective, it can also mean more pain.

Laser energy can have cumulative effect when introduced repetitively in the same target area. Using this principle, it is now possible to avoid painful laser procedure with the use of low fluence (4-8 J/cm2) and high repetition rate (10 pulses per second). This is commonly referred to as Super Hair Removal (SHR). Diode lasers with this new technology are virtually painless and as effective, making SHR a popular alternative to waxing in Brazilian hair removal. (Part 2 will be published on June 19, 2012.)

______________________________________________________________________________________(Updated on February 21, 2013) This was published in the Lifestyle Section of Manila Bulletin on June 12, 2012. The author is the CEO of SkinStation. He received the 2011 Outstanding Chemist Award from Professional Regulations Commission for his achievements in the field of cosmetic chemistry. He can be reached at fred.reyes@skinstation.ph.

Retinol Treatment for Aging Skin

Retinol Treatment for Aging Skin

Topical vitamin A in the form of retinol and retinoic acid is probably the most studied anti-wrinkle ingredient. Retinoic acid speeds up cell division thus quickening skin renewal, prevents collagen from breaking down, and helps improve skin tone. However, retinoic acid has many side effects, including skin redness and irritation.

To minimize side effects, retinol is used instead in non-prescription anti-aging creams and lotions. Retinol is slowly converted to retinoic acid once it penetrates the skin, causing retinoic acid-like skin rejuvenating effects. The slow conversion to retinoic acid makes incidence of skin irritation much less.

Old retinol formulas have encountered stability and efficacy issues. Retinol is highly unstable when exposed to air and may get degraded even before skin application. New formulations now use advanced nano-encapsulation technology to address this important retinol stability concern.

Nano-encapsulated retinol makes
DERMAX Retinol C highly effective.

Of all the clinical studies on retinol, one stands out for having geriatrics as its subjects. The study published in the Archives of Dermatology describes the clinical effect of retinol lotion (0.4%) on 36 subjects with ages 80 to 96. “Safe and effective therapies to reverse the atrophy of natural skin aging do not exist currently,” the investigators led by Dr. Kang wrote, “possibly because skin aging is poorly understood, and conducting clinical studies in a geriatric population represents a considerable challenge.”

At each visit, topical retinol lotion was applied to the upper-inner (sun-protected) portion of one arm and its vehicle lotion (a popular brand of body moisturizer) was applied to the other arm. Lotions were applied up to three times a week for 24 weeks.

The fine wrinkles of intrinsic aging began to improve after four weeks of retinol use, with continued improvement throughout the study, the researchers reported. The four-week response was faster than that observed in photoaging studies. Typically, at least two to three months of topical retinoic acid therapy is needed before noting any significant improvement in wrinkles caused by photoaging.

After 24 weeks, there were significant differences between retinol-treated and vehicle-treated skin for changes in fine wrinkling scores. Retinol treatment significantly increased collagen production in six patients by about 40% compared with vehicle treatment.

The improvement was not permanent. Three months after the therapy was discontinued the difference in fine wrinkle severity had lessened between the retinol- and vehicle-treated sides but remained significant. Six months after the discontinuation of retinol treatment, no significant differences remained between the 2 sides. 

If topical retinol can improve fine wrinkles, collagen deficiency, and atrophy in the fragile skin of elderly subjects, it should be able to do more on younger, less challenging skin.

______________________________________________________________________________________This was published in the June 5, 2012 issue of Manila Bulletin, Lifestyle Section. The author is the CEO of SkinStation. He received the 2011 Outstanding Chemist Award from Professional Regulations Commission for his achievements in the field of cosmetic chemistry. He can be reached at fred.reyes@skinstation.ph.

The Natural Deodorant Option

With the growing sense of alarm about the hazards of chemicals used in deodorants and antiperspirants, we embarked on a project to develop a lightening deodorant that will avoid the safety issues and provide maximum consumer benefits using natural alternatives. 

Controversial chemicals that we decided not to use are triclosan, a very popular but controversial antibacterial agent; parabens, which are preservatives, added to most cosmetics; and aluminum salts, the antiperspirant actives which close the pores to prevent sweat from coming out, which is not exactly a good thing. Aluminum chlorohydrate is used in most antiperspirant products.  

Published reports have been circulating on the possible links between these chemicals to impaired thyroid function (triclosan) and altered estrogen levels progressing to breast cancer (aluminum salts and parabens).  Although regulators find that there is not enough body of evidence to ban these ingredients, we decided to follow the dictum, “When in doubt, don’t! “

There is one other serious concern why we cannot use aluminum actives in a whitening product. Aluminum salts cause skin irritation, which can lead to darkening of underarms. In fact, people with sensitive skin are advised to stay away from antiperspirants and use instead deodorants. Antiperspirants with alcohol and strong fragrances, which are likewise strong skin irritants, can be the worst offenders causing dark underarms.

Providing a natural deodorant that will keep people smelling good is our challenge. Human perspiration is actually odorless, until introduced to bacteria that thrive in warm, dark, moist places. The bacteria will break down sweat through fermentation. This chemical reaction causes the malodor. A good antibacterial agent can prevent this from happening.

The natural antibacterial ingredient we settled on is colloidal silver. Silver in its atomic form is an all around destroyer of bacteria, virus and fungi, and is clinically proven effective against body odor-causing bacteria. Zinc ricinoleate is added to neutralize any malodor that may still develop. Whitening activity comes from Licorice root extract, alpha arbutin from bearberry, axolight from wheat, and the patented ethyl ascorbic acid, the most potent of all the vitamin C derivatives.

The final product, we proudly called the DERMAX Deowhite natural deodorant.  Now, if your antiperspirant is causing your underarms to go dark, or if you have doubts about their safety, you now have a safer and better alternative.
______________________________________________________________________________________(Updated on February 15, 2013.) This was published in the May 29, 2012 issue of the Manila Bulletin, Lifestyle Section. The author is the CEO of SkinStation. He received the 2011 Outstanding Chemist Award from Professional Regulations Commission for his achievements in the field of cosmetic chemistry. He can be reached at fred.reyes@skinstation.ph.