DO YOU REALLY NEED A 100+ SPF?

Do You Really Need a 100+ SPF?

Competition for higher SPF claims among sunscreen products is as intense as the summer heat. The advertising messages tend to mislead many into thinking that a 100+ SPF is twice as good as the one with a 50 SPF. But that is farthest from the truth.

Let’s look at the facts. A sunscreen with SPF 15 blocks about 93% of UVB rays; SPF 30 blocks 97% of UVB rays; and SPF 50 blocks about 98% of UVB rays. Beyond SPF 50, any additional sun protection would be insignificant. No sunscreen will block 100 percent of UVB rays.

If you have fair skin, you normally would develop sunburn in 10 minutes, in full sun without sun protection. A 30 SPF sunscreen would provide protection 30 times longer. That means 300 minutes before you start to burn. That’s 5 hours. A 50 SPF would protect you for 500 minutes. That is more than 8 hours!

The USFDA has already proposed prohibiting sunscreen claims beyond SPF 50, which tend to be “misleading to the consumer,” given that there is an “absence of data demonstrating additional clinical benefit” (FDA 2011a), and that “there is no assurance that the specific values themselves are in fact truthful…” (FDA 2007).

Do not get the idea that with a high SPF rating, one application of sunscreen would be enough to protect you all day. You of course need to reapply after swimming, drying off or sweating. You also need to reapply every two hours. Sunscreen ingredients are like sponges that absorb radiation and lose their protective power as they reach saturation point.

Beyond SPF (Sun Protection Factor) 50,
the marketing difference is plain HYPE.

Note that SPF measures only protection against UVB rays, which cause sunburns, but not UVA rays, which can be more damaging to body tissues and cause wrinkles and premature aging. UVA rays penetrate deeper into the skin than UVB rays. Protection against UVA rays could be a more important consideration when choosing your sunscreen, especially for daily use.

How is protection against UVA rays measured? Most brands have adopted the PA system (Protection Grade of UVA) to measure protection against UVA rays. The PA system is based on the persistent pigment darkening (PPD) method, which uses UVA radiation to cause persistent darkening of the skin. A PPD rating of 10 should allow a person 10 times as much UVA exposure as would be without protection. PA+ corresponds to a PPD rating between 2 and 4, PA++ between 4 and 8, and the highest rating at PA+++, more than 8.

Be skin smart in choosing your sunscreen product. And remember that the first line of defense against harmful radiation would be shade, protective clothing and avoiding the midday sun.

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Skin Smart seeks to clarify facts and myths on skin care. This column was published in the Manila Bulletin Lifestyle Section on April 23, 2013. The author  received the 2011 Outstanding Chemist Award from Professional Regulations Commission (PRC) for his achievements in the field of cosmetic chemistry.  The author is the CEO of SkinStation and can be reached at fred.reyes@skinstation.ph.  

A Guide to Chemical Peels

Chemical  peel  is  used  to  improve  the  appearance of the skin. A chemical solution  is  applied  to  the skin that causes it to "blister" and eventually peel off. Fine  lines and wrinkles can  often be reduced or even eliminated with this procedure. Skin blotches like sunspots, age spots and freckles can be minimized. Mild scarring, certain  types of acne, and dull skin can be improved by chemical peels.

The more common types of chemical peels are:

1) Glycolic acid peel - This produces superficial peeling and may require multiple sessions, with option to use increasing concentrations at 20%, 30%, and 40%. It improves skin texture, reduces fine lines and mild scarring, and helps prevent acne breakouts.  It is also used to enhance penetration of other skin actives for lightening and anti-aging.

2) Salicylic acid peel – Studies show that salicylic acid has the ability to get deeper into the pore than glycolic acid. It is now the preferred peel in controlling oil production, and in preventing formation of blackheads and whiteheads. In general, salicylic acid does not produce as deep a peel as a similar concentration of glycolic acid.

3) Jessner's peel – Dr. Max Jessner combined 14% salicylic acid, lactic acid, and resorcinol in an ethanol base for a very mild acid combination that is often applied right before a deeper peel to “open up the skin.”

4) Retinoic acid peel - This is a deeper peel than salicylic acid peel and is usually performed in conjunction with a Jessner. The client leaves with the solution on their face. The peeling takes place on the 3rd day onwards. Expect dramatic improvements with multiple peels over time with scars, wrinkles and pigmentation problems.

5) Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) peel – This can produce intermediate to deep peeling in concentrations ranging from 20-35%. Depth of penetration is increased as concentration increases. Concentrations higher than 35% are not recommended because of the high risk of scarring.  TCA peel can smooth out fine wrinkles and remove superficial blemishes. Skin will take several days to heal depending on the peel depth. Repeat treatments are usually required.

6) Phenol peel – This carbolic acid peel is the strongest which produces dramatic improvement with just a single treatment. However, phenol peels may pose high risks in darker skinned patients and may result in permanent uneven skin tone.

After any kind of chemical peel, it is important to avoid prolonged sun exposure and to always wear broad-spectrum sunscreen, like DERMAX UV MILK since the new skin is susceptible to complications. The dermatologist will prescribe other post treatment care to reduce the tendency to develop abnormal skin color after peeling.

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This was published in the April 9, 2013 issue of Manila Bulletin, Lifestyle Section. The author, Fred C. Reyes, is the CEO of SkinStation. He received the 2011 Outstanding Chemist Award from Professional Regulations Commission for his achievements in the field of cosmetic chemistry. He can be reached at fred.reyes@skinstation.ph.