WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT COLLAGENESIS

What You Should Know

About Collagenesis

Collagenesis is more than just dermal rolling (or micro needling), a process that involves poking the face with micro needles to boost collagen production.  SkinStation’s  Collagenesis procedure is based on studies indicating that the combination of micro needling and anti-aging infusion showed the best improvement compared to micro needling alone. Collagenesis combines dermal rolling and infusion of DERMAX CollaWhite serum concentrate, a proprietary blend of advanced anti-aging and lightening actives.

How Micro Needling Works: If you cut your skin, the platelets in your blood release growth factors which increase the production of intercellular matrix of your skin.  With dermal roller, you create hundreds of micro wounds down in the dermis to cause the same inflammatory response. Collagen production increases. Over time this collagen naturally tightens up to reduces wrinkles and resurface scars. And because these needle holes are so small, there’s no risk of post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), unlike some deep chemical peels or laser resurfacing.

What Are The Proven Benefits of Collagenesis?
1. Helps improve appearance of acne scars

2. Reduces wrinkles by boosting collagen production

3. Helps reduce stretch marks: A study from a 2010 issue of Plastic & Reconstructive Surgery show that micro needling helps reduce stretch marks. A 30-minute single session was done on 22 subjects. After 6 months, the needled area showed “improved skin texture, skin tightening…” Biopsies showed an increase of collagen and elastin.

The Importance of Needle Size

Medical needling requires needle length of 1.0 - 2.0 mm. These needles will activate collagen synthesis as long as they puncture enough capillaries.  You should have tiny red-purple blood dots all over your face. Surgical needling requires long needles (3.0 mm).  They penetrate deep enough to work on deep scar tissue and produce a lot of blood.

Only a trained physician must perform micro needling. Do not try to do it on yourself. Do not buy “at home” versions with short needles (0.3 - 0.5 mm). They don’t work at all.

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This column was published in the Manila Bulletin Lifestyle Section on September 2, 2014 . The author is the CEO of SkinStation. He received the 2011 Outstanding Chemist Award from Professional Regulation Commission (PRC) for his achievements in the field of cosmetic chemistry. Skin Smart aims to clarify facts and myths on skin care. Send your questions and comments to info@skinstation.ph. 

A Guide to Chemical Peels

Chemical  peel  is  used  to  improve  the  appearance of the skin. A chemical solution  is  applied  to  the skin that causes it to "blister" and eventually peel off. Fine  lines and wrinkles can  often be reduced or even eliminated with this procedure. Skin blotches like sunspots, age spots and freckles can be minimized. Mild scarring, certain  types of acne, and dull skin can be improved by chemical peels.

The more common types of chemical peels are:

1) Glycolic acid peel - This produces superficial peeling and may require multiple sessions, with option to use increasing concentrations at 20%, 30%, and 40%. It improves skin texture, reduces fine lines and mild scarring, and helps prevent acne breakouts.  It is also used to enhance penetration of other skin actives for lightening and anti-aging.

2) Salicylic acid peel – Studies show that salicylic acid has the ability to get deeper into the pore than glycolic acid. It is now the preferred peel in controlling oil production, and in preventing formation of blackheads and whiteheads. In general, salicylic acid does not produce as deep a peel as a similar concentration of glycolic acid.

3) Jessner's peel – Dr. Max Jessner combined 14% salicylic acid, lactic acid, and resorcinol in an ethanol base for a very mild acid combination that is often applied right before a deeper peel to “open up the skin.”

4) Retinoic acid peel - This is a deeper peel than salicylic acid peel and is usually performed in conjunction with a Jessner. The client leaves with the solution on their face. The peeling takes place on the 3rd day onwards. Expect dramatic improvements with multiple peels over time with scars, wrinkles and pigmentation problems.

5) Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) peel – This can produce intermediate to deep peeling in concentrations ranging from 20-35%. Depth of penetration is increased as concentration increases. Concentrations higher than 35% are not recommended because of the high risk of scarring.  TCA peel can smooth out fine wrinkles and remove superficial blemishes. Skin will take several days to heal depending on the peel depth. Repeat treatments are usually required.

6) Phenol peel – This carbolic acid peel is the strongest which produces dramatic improvement with just a single treatment. However, phenol peels may pose high risks in darker skinned patients and may result in permanent uneven skin tone.

After any kind of chemical peel, it is important to avoid prolonged sun exposure and to always wear broad-spectrum sunscreen, like DERMAX UV MILK since the new skin is susceptible to complications. The dermatologist will prescribe other post treatment care to reduce the tendency to develop abnormal skin color after peeling.

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This was published in the April 9, 2013 issue of Manila Bulletin, Lifestyle Section. The author, Fred C. Reyes, is the CEO of SkinStation. He received the 2011 Outstanding Chemist Award from Professional Regulations Commission for his achievements in the field of cosmetic chemistry. He can be reached at fred.reyes@skinstation.ph.