HOW TO GET RID OF MILIA

How To Get Rid Of Milia 

Milia are superficial white bumps that form when skin cells become entrapped beneath the outer layer of the skin. Milia most often arise on the face and are particularly prominent on the undereye, eyelids, forehead, and around the lips,  but they may occur elsewhere.

The most common cause of milia is the use of heavy skin care or hair care products. Comedogenic creams and lotions prevent the sloughing of dead epidermal skin cells. Other problem products include hair spray, hair mousse and gel, oily sunscreens and heavy moisturizers.

The eyelids are very thin and are more likely to experience problems with milia due to cosmetics. Check your eye make-up and eyelid make-up remover. Certain lipsticks, lip balms and products meant to help with chapped lips may be the cause of milia around the lips. Again, if you see these forming, take a good look at the ingredients on the label.

The formation of milia can also be due to genetics, as well as aging. As we age, the turn over of skin cells slows down, forming a thicker epidermis. Thicker skin makes the natural exfoliation process more difficult.

Exfoliation is the first step in dealing with milia prone skin. By keeping the epidermis thin and smooth, you can minimize the tendency to form milia. One way is to use a gentle exfoliating product such as DERMAX Retinol C serum. Another way is to undergo a periodic treatment of diamond peel or glycolic peel at the clinic. TCA chemical peel is deeper than glycolic peel, used primarily to minimize fine lines and skin discolorations, which can simultaneously address the elimination of milia.

Sometimes milia can be very persistent in spite of your best efforts. Then you will need to visit the clinic for milia extraction. After cleansing with antiseptic, the skin overlying the milia is gently opened with a sterile needle. Then pressure is applied with a comedone extractor. Milia are often easily removed by extraction, except on the upper eyelid. There simply isn’t a good way to press on the upper eyelid area and avoid the eyeball, so the lid has to be pulled either upwards or to the side, which is somewhat challenging.

What else can you do to prevent milia?

1) Avoid unnecessary sun exposure, and make it a habit to apply every morning the non-greasy DERMAX UV MILK SPF50 PA+++ instead of comedogenic sunscreens. 

2) Use exfoliating cleanser such as DERMAX AcneX transparent soap with nano-encapsulated salicylic acid not only to keep pores unclogged but also to help remove unwanted surface skin debris.

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This article was published in the Lifestyle Section of Manila Bulletin on September 10, 2013. The author is the CEO of SkinStation. He received the 2011 Outstanding Chemist Award from the Professional Regulation Commission (PRC) for his achievements in the field of cosmetic chemistry. Skin Smart aims to clarify facts and myths on skin care. Send your questions and comments to info@skinstation.ph. 

What You Can Do About Melasma

What You Can Do About Melasma

Melasma typically appears as dark, irregular, well-demarcated hyper-pigmented patches on the face, usually seen on the upper cheek, nose, upper lip, and forehead. These patches develop gradually over time.  It is a common skin disorder in women during their reproductive years, and is often referred to as the “mask of pregnancy”.

The dark patches are caused by the overstimulation of the pigment producing cells in the dermis, called melanocytes, to produce more melanin when the skin is exposed to the sun. Experts believe that increased levels of female sex hormones estrogen and progesterone, combined with sun exposure, trigger hyperactive melanin production.

Pregnant women experience increased estrogen, progesterone, and melanocyte-stimulating hormone (MSH) levels during the second and third trimesters of pregnancy. Hormone related correlation is also seen with increased incidence of melasma in women taking birth control pills, hormone replacement therapy (HRT), and those with thyroid condition.

Genetic predisposition may also be a factor, just as race can play a role. Melasma is most common among women of Asian, Middle Eastern and Latin descent. There are also antiarrhythmic, antiseizure and antibiotic medications like tetracycline that may make the skin more prone to pigmentation after exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light. Certain cosmetic preparations have also been found to cause melasma-like patches on the face.

The discoloration usually fades away over a period of several months after giving birth or after stopping the oral contraceptives or hormone replacement therapy. Unfortunately, not all the discolorations disappear. Many also experience a resurgence of the patches after prolonged sun exposure.

Avoid the sun and 

use sunscreen daily. 

Prevention is primarily aimed at having daily facial sun protection and sun avoidance. Treatment requires the same regular daily sunscreen application, with minimum of SPF30 recommended. Wearing sunscreen daily should be a continuing habit even during pregnancy, while all other forms of treatments should be done after pregnancy.

The most common melasma home remedy is a combo of lightening and exfoliating ingredients. Years ago, the preferred lightening ingredient product was hydroquinone. Misuse of blends of hydroquinone and tretinoin have been the cause of many skin discolorations on the face, particularly those who failed to include sunscreen in their daily regimen. Risks associated with long term use of hydroquinone have also prompted most countries to restrict its sale. 

For sometime, kojic acid appeared to be the chosen replacement for hydroquinone, but doubts about its safety were raised prompting Japan and Korea to ban its use in cosmetic preparations. Now, we see the market embracing natural and effective skin lightening alternatives, like licorice extract, ellagic acid, and alpha arbutin, which are all found in DERMAX NanoWhite night essence, creams, and lotions. DERMAX Retinol C serum provides a more intensive effect with its micro-exfoliation feature.

In conjunction with home cream applications, in-clinic treatment options include chemical peels by TCA or a combo of glycolic and diamond peels. CollaWhite Collagenesis is a signature microneedling procedure at SkinStation designed to minimize skin discoloration and smoothen out rough skin. Multiple treatments, in combination with daily use of DERMAX UV MILK sunscreen, lightening and exfoliant creams, yield best results. To ensure that treatment doesn't fail, sun exposure should be minimized.

Many doctors generally avoid IPL and laser therapy options for melasma. While it may work for some, many patients report a worsening of their skin discoloration. Those with melasma have excitable melanocytes that any exposure to light can trigger adverse effect. If your doctor recommends IPL or laser, ask for a second opinion.

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This was published in the July 3, 2012 issue of Manila Bulletin Lifestyle Section. The author is the CEO of SkinStation. He received the 2011 Outstanding Chemist Award from Professional Regulations Commission (PRC) for his achievements in the field of cosmetic chemistry. He can be reached at fred.reyes@skinstation.ph. (Updated on April 23, 2013.)